bug#58632: Setting Apple's emoji font on macOS in daemon mode

[Tor Kringeland]

Minimal reproducing example:

Run

  emacs -Q --daemon --eval "(set-fontset-font t 'unicode \"Apple Color Emoji\")"

and insert an emoji.  It will not be rendered by the Apple Color Emoji
font.  This wasn't the case on the build from a week or two ago (and
builds for many months before that).  It works if I do not run Emacs in
daemon mode or explicitly set the font after having connected a client.
Is this a bug or is there another way I should specify the emoji font?

(Using an Emacs build from today's sources.)