makeinfo 4.0: does not expand macros in @item?

[Akim Demaille]

Why trying to use macros to define entries of a multitable, I fell
onto this:

/tmp % cat sample.texi
@macro ovar{varname}
@address@hidden@r{]}
@end macro

@table @asis
@item @ovar{toto}
Description of @ovar{toto}.
@end table

@bye
/tmp % makeinfo -E - --commands sample.texi

@table @asis
@item @ovar{toto}
Description of @address@hidden@r{]}.
@end table

@bye


(I tried with --commands to see if it had an influence, but it does
not).  I suspect this is not meant :(

Makeinfo 4.0b has the same behavior.